Posts by Sally:
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- Black Grouse tracks
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- Dry Bones
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- Chamois grazing in the Alps
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- A crossbill (from finch family)
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- Golden Eagle
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- Evening Light on the Mountains
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- Fossil found on the ridge
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- In the Refuge
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- Looking for wolves
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- The moon with it’s halo
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- Scanning the mountains for wolves
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- The wolf pack prints
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- Scanning the ridge
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- Wolf Tracks
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- Walking up to the ridge
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- Wolf and Fox Tracks
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- Where the wolf crossed our tracks
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- Wolves in the woods?
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- Katie climbing the Rateau 3809m
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- The climb up to the summit
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- Climbing up the Glacier
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- Crossing the Glacier
A Perfect Winter Mountaineering Initiation in the Alps
March 16th, 2012
Kenny and Rhona at the top of the snow gully
When Kenny, a Scot with an impressive mountaineering background, called to ask what sort of thing would be possible to do in the Alps in winter on snowshoes, it was a tricky one to answer. He was coming with his girlfriend Rhona, an experienced winter walker and novice alpinist. They wanted to do something a bit more than a normal snowshoe walk that would be a challenge for Rhona!
In the Alps most winter mountaineering is done on skis as the approaches and descents are long and snowy and it is much more efficient and quicker to move on skis than anything else! There is also the added pressure of needing to be off the mountains and safely back down the valley before the day heats up too much, increasing the risk of avalanche and rockfall, so the days are extra short!
In winter the conditions in the high mountains can be very unpredictable; there could be deep powder in which case walking in snowshoes is just simply too exhausting to get anywhere far, it can be icy, in which case crampons would be better, there can be high winds, high avalanche risk and severely cold temperatures.
Snowshoes are very limiting as they are not really adapted to steep slopes or very icy conditions so as soon as you leave the lower mountain trails you can be quickly in difficulty!
Unfortunately neither Rhona or Kenny had ever put a pair of skis on in their lives so snowshoes, ice axes and crampons were to be the only tools for the trip!
So the answer was a really very vague, “it basically depends on the weather but there are a lot of factors against you!” kind of answer!
After explaining all this, I really expected them not to bother booking and maybe to come back in the summer. But no, Kenny’s enthusiasm for the mountains was over-riding – the summer was too long to wait for an alpine fix.
They booked for March with two days private guiding and a ‘we’ll wait and see what the conditions are like and take it from there” attitude.
March finally arrived and after a very poor snow year and warm temperatures, the mountains were looking pretty snow depleted, even at 2- 3000 metres! In addition, after each snowfall this year there had been high winds so the ridges were blowdried! But actually, though less good for skiers, for Kenny and Rhona this was great. It reduced the deep snow problem and though slushy soft snow and avalanche risk was still potentially an issue in certain places, this would be easier to manage by choosing our mountains carefully!
After an initial day climbing the Petite Autane a pretty mountain with a dramatic limestone ridge, then a walk up to the summit and a snowshoe down snowfields Bernard decided to go for the Roc Diolon 3066m.
We got the ski lift up to 2200m in the resort of Orcieres 1850 – a big save on time and ascent energy. Then we walked up on the pistes towards the col- not very wild but an easy walk up!
Then we harnessed up, put on our crampons and roped up to attack a fabulous little gully that would take us up to the ridge. The gradient started off at about 40 degrees and the snow was hard enough not to sink in but soft enough to get a good grip and we cramponed up.
After that it was a beautiful walk up to the summit with spectacular views on both sides. We could see the Sirac, Olan, Ailefroid, Barre des Ecrins… all the big Ecrins summits as well as the Pic de Bure, Ceuse and at the top we could see Mont Viso! We lunched and enjoyed the views before removing our crampons and tackling the exposed section of the ridge.
It was like summer – there was no ice, hardly any snow and the rock was dry! It was beautiful and enough of a challenge to keep us on our toes. Concentration needed!
Then came the descent, a large steep snow field. The pressure was on as we had just 21/2 hours to get back to the ski lift and avoid a very long walk down. It was also heating up and this was a south west face prone to avalanches and rock fall. The snow was soft on the top but still well hardened underneath and was perfect for walking down duck style with heels in. No crampons needed but a few ice axe arrests were made! It was a relief to get to the bottom and the relative safety of the ski resort! Though Bernard reminded us that even in a ski resort there are dangers as he described how an avlanche from a seemingly small and innocent looking hillock nearly swept out a group of army officers and covered a piste in recent years.
Just as we neared the piste, we stopped to remove a layer and were given a reality danger check as the mountain above us released several rocks that hurtled down and could have done serious damage!
We quickened the pace and managed to catch the telecabin down for an easy finish to the day and a well deserved drink in Orcieres!
It really was a great mountaineering initiation: climbing a gully in ice axe and crampons, moving together on a rope over a steep and exposed ridge and descending a snowfield using the ice axe for protection and experiencing the 
safety time pressure dictated by the conditions! A very lucky day for conditions in March and a big thank you to Kenny and Rhona for choosing to share their mountaineering enthusiasm with us!
Have a look at more photos of the day on our flickr album.
If you would like to debut in mountaineering, have a look at our introductory mountaineering trip in June.
Top 5 Places to Stay in the Southern French Alps
March 1st, 2012
The Southern French Alps is a large area so to narrow it down I have focused on the Champsaur valley which is on the southern edge of the Ecrins National Park. It is a beautiful valley, still very French and in touch with it’s heritage and culture with a wide range of mountain activities to do in both summer and winter.
I know this valley very well and have lived in and around it for 6 years and visited most of the accommodation available as part of my role with Undiscovered Alps. However, I quickly realised when deciding to write this review that to choose the best places to stay is actually very difficult and very subjective! I now understand why the Gites de France and other accommodation labels have their sometimes bizarre criteria for acheiving certain ratings!!
So what were my criteria for choosing a good place to stay?
First of all it depended on what type of accommodation it was as to what I felt was important. The staff and welcome are more important in a hotel or bed and breakfast than a self catering chalet, for example. In a self catering chalet, good equipment and facilities as well as somewhere comfortable to sit and decent views I thought were important! For all, high levels of cleanliness were imperative!!
So in no particular order, here are my top choices and why I chose them!!
1: Emile’s Farm bed and breakfast
Although from the outside, this traditional grey farmhouse of the region doesn’t look like much, it is a gem of a find. What makes this bed and breakfast particularly special are it’s owners. Jean-Marie and Dominique are super hosts. They are discreet but always there when you need them and will bend over backwards to make sure you enjoy your stay. The way they have designed their bed and breakfast reflects this with real attention to practical detail!
Upstairs there are three ensuite bed and breakfast rooms decorated in a simple farmhouse style and furnished with traditional alpine furniture. The bathrooms are clean and well maintained. Downstairs there is a children’s play area with books, colouring and games with low tables and cushions – perfect for keeping those little ones amused whilst you relax next door in the main living area. In the living area there are two lounge areas, one next to the open fire and one with a beautiful mountain view out of the window. In between is a large dining table where breakfast and evening meals (if you choose) are served all together. There is also a very well equipped kitchen which you can use to make picnics or even cook your own evening meals if you wish. It’s no problem to make yourself a cup of tea or coffee whenever you like and make yourself at home in the living area and kitchen.
In the summer there are a table and chairs outside in the garden where you can sit and enjoy the mountain views. Dominique has an extensive vegetable and herb garden which she will be only too happy to give you a tour around. I would highly recommend eating evening meals at least once during your stay to taste the produce of Dominique’s garden which is always beautifully cuisined!
2: La Combe Fleurie bed and breakfast
La Combe Fleurie was the first bed and breakfast to open in the Champsaur Valley and is probably one of the most successful. You need to book at least a year in advance to secure a place for a full week as weekends are very popular with local tourists. It is it’s owners, Donald (Scottish) and Agnes (a local Champsaurian) who really make La Combe Fleurie special. The property is their home and when you stay there, you stay with them. Of course you have your own ensuite bedroom as do they but everything else is shared. If you are offered a cup of tea, it won’t appear on your bill at the end of the week – it is simply an invitation to share a drink!
There are 5 ensuite bedrooms, including family and double rooms with modern shower rooms and separate toilets in each room. In the living room there is a cosy area around the wood burner, a games table and large sociable dining table. Outside you have some of the most beautiful mountain views of the area and the downstairs rooms each have their own terrace as well as a shared sun terrace to soak in those sun rays, the Southern Alps are famous for! There are large grounds with an orchard and impressive vegetable garden outside for children to run around in (not in the actual vegetables!!).
It is possible to eat evening meals here and again I would highly recommend at least one night. The food is simple but good and ambiance is fun and sociable!
3: Cecile’s Farm self catering property
This is a traditional farmhouse of the region that has been beautifully renovated by Cecile and Eric. What makes this farmhouse special is the quality of the equipment and facilities available to guests – the kitchen is better equipped than my own! It is also one of the rare properties that can sleep two families comfortably in two double bedrooms and two bedrooms with three beds. Downstairs there is a beautiful open plan kitchen diner with an archway through to the cosy corner with sofas, a fabulous open fire and full TV DVD equipment. There are two bathrooms, one with a lovely large bath and a separate shower and one with just a shower and two toilets.
The other great thing about Cecile’s Farm is its location. It is in the middle of a large field next to the river Drac. You have the impression of being in the middle of nowhere but are actually only 3 mins drive from St Bonnet, a medieval village and the main centre of commerce of the valley. You have your own private garden but can also roam around the extensive grounds. There is a lake in the grounds, horses and children’s swings!
Another rare plus for this property is that Cecile includes sheets, towels and teatowels with the rental (most self catering properties in France do not include these) so there are no extras to pay and you can literally step off a plane and it’s home from home – another attention to detail that reflects the quality of this property.
4: Chalet Style Apartments – self catering
Location Location Location is why these are in the top list! They are situated in a pretty ski village called Chaillol which is on the south facing side of the valley with views to die for of the Alps as they run out towards Provence. Each apartment has a south facing outside balcony or terrace with this view and sun right into the evening. There are beautiful walks right from the door and a great mountain biking descent and you are only 10 mins drive from St Bonnet, the main centre of commerce, the swimming lake and close to other mountain activities (for summer). For winter you have skiing right from your door and access to a whole host of other activities.
There are a range of sizes and, like all French ski apartments, classified by capacity. Please note that an eight person apartment is great for a family of four or five but cramped if you actually had eight people in there! They are all nicely decorated in a chalet style with an open plan living area with dining tables and chairs, sofas with extra pull out beds and a functional but quite small kitchenette. It is worth mentioning that there are no traditional ovens in the kitchens, just hob and microwave. The bathrooms are clean and well maintained.
Of all the accommodation we use for Undiscovered Alps activity holidays, these apartments represent the best value for money.
The Auberge is not quite a hotel but not a bed and breakfast either – more like a relaxed bistro with rooms! It is located in the wild Champoleon valley in a little hamlet and a perfect location for winter snowshoers, ski tourers or cross country skiers and in summer it’s a great base for walking or mountain biking. It is run by a small team of local outdoories headed up by Stephanie and Laurent. Stephanie is a very good cook and the Auberge is one of the few places where you can actually get a good vegetarian dinner (that isn’t an omelette!). Laurent is front of house and a great host. Nothing is too much trouble.
They often host sporting events like moonlit cross country skiing evenings and musical events and have now got a very good reputation. If you happen to be staying when there is an event on – be prepared to get involved and have fun! Our client feedback for the last two New Year’s Eve’s has been that it’s been ‘the best New Year’s Eve party’ they have ever been to!
It is a traditional farmhouse building that has been done out in a modern funky style. The actual accommodation is quite basic. There isn’t a hotel cleaning service and your floor won’t get swept half way through the week unless you ask for it. The entrance is sometimes piled up with deliveries, clients snowshoes and skis and it can seem quite chaotic. So why is it in my top list?
Because it is fun and friendly, the team who run it are like minded outdoory and ecologically friendly people and the food is great! You stay here for the ambiance with an acceptable level of comfort and it’s good value for money!
How to build an igloo or snow shelter
February 6th, 2012
Snow has been used by the Inuit for its insulating properties for centuries and they are the masters of igloo building – constructing all types of snow shelters from overnight hunting shelters to full igloo villages.
For a beginner, it can take 3 – 6 hours to build a sleepable in Inuit style igloo but the conditions need to be right. To build an igloo (which is made with blocks) you need hard packed snow that you can cut and shape to be able to cut out the blocks.
There is also a skill required for the actual construction and it can take a few attempts to get it right.
A snow shelter or quinzee is a good alternative. It requires much less skill to build and is as warm as an igloo.
You still need to have enough and the right kind of snow to build one though. The ideal snow for building a snow shelter is the sort of snow that makes good snowballs. Very powdery and sugar like snow is impossible to build a snow shelter with. In these situations you need to dig down to harder packed snow or find wind swept packed snow in a drift. The snow crystals in wind packed snow interlock so it sticks together better making it possible to build with!
Step 1: Find a good spot for your shelter. It’s vital to choose a safe location away from avalanche prone slopes or cornices. It will also make your life a lot easier if you choose areas where there is a natural accummulation of the right kind of snow – snow drift!!!
Step 2: Mark a circle in the snow. For 2 people you will need a circle of around 2 metres diameter and for 4 people around 4 metres.
Step 3: Shovel a pile of snow into a large reasonably steep mound. If you can keep the sloping sides at an angle of around 35 degrees or higher that is best for stability. Wide, short snow shelters are more prone to collapse. Mix snow of different temperatures to help it to harden, or “sinter.”
Step 4: In deep snow begin by digging a trench downward into the snow towards your mound. This should be on the downhill side and out of the wind if possible. As you dig place the snow that is being removed from the trench on top of your mound. In these conditions make the trench as deep as you are tall.
Step 5: Leave the snow to settle or ‘sinter’ for about 90 minutes if possible.
Step 6: Begin tunneling in. At a point at about knee level in your trench make the entrance. Make the tunnel slightly wider than your body and tunnel at a slightly upwards angle. Ideally the floor of the snow shelter should be at least 30cm above the entrance, this will help prevent warm air from escaping the shelter. After the initial entrance is made it is easier to hollow from the top down. The walls should be 30 – 60cm thick. You can poke sticks through the walls to mark and measure the thickness. Leave an elevated platform for sleeping on. As heat rises you are in the warmest part of the igloo for sleeping!
Step 7. Make an air vent in the wall of the shelter. This is very important – to stop you suffocating in the night!
Step 8: Block the entrance with a block of snow or rucksack.
Step 9: Smooth the inside walls – this will help control dripping!
TIPS:
Building a snow shelter will make you sweat. Strip into underlayers and shells if possible to build and save dry clothes for afterwards. Prevent hypothermia by changing into warm dry clothes as soon as you have finished building your shelter.
Make sure you mark your entrance with pole or sticks.
Keep a shovel inside in case you need to dig your way out.
When you go to sleep, put your boots and any other clothes you want to put on in the morning in your sleeping bag – otherwise they will freeze!
It is not recommended to cook inside a snow shelter as it can cause carbon monoxide poisoning.
If you would like to have a go at building a snow shelter, have a look at our igloo building adventure that you can do as part of a winter activity holiday .
If you have any other snow shelter building tips or experiences, we would love to hear them. please tell us about them in the comments below.
Where Next?
January 17th, 2012
The Undiscovered Alps
How to find other quality independent holiday companies on the web!
We are based in the Southern French Alps famed for it’s great weather, wild and natural environment and the preservation of it’s alpine culture.
People often fall in love with the area and come back year after year. Or they experiment with the different seasons; snowshoeing or ski touring in the winter and mountaineering , mountain biking, or multi activity holidays in the summer.
But sometimes we are asked where would be a good place to go next?
The criteria required is the same, an undiscovered area, wild and unspoilt and ideally with a small locally based tour operator like ourselves to get that unique insight into the area and a personalized service.
The problem is that small independent travel companies are hard to find on the internet as they don’t have the same marketing budget as the big guys!
But there is a solution!! There are (thankfully) some innovative people around who have put together websites to group independent travel companies and make them easier for people to find.
We use some of these ourselves and you may even have discovered us through one of them.
Walkingholidayinfo is a great site for independent walking holidays in Europe. All the tour operators listed on their site are small independent companies offering walking, snowshoeing and mountaineering holidays. You can find Undiscovered Alps on their page on walking holidays in France.
Responsible travel is a site specializing in travel companies who have a responsible travel ethic.
Adventure Sports Holidays focus on the more unusual adventure holidays available around the world.
Muchbetteradventures are collecting the best local and independent active holiday providers from around the world, whilst giving those with a commitment to sustainability a little extra boost.
I’ll add more as I discover them but these are all travel portals that we use and through which clients have found us.
If you know of a good site we would love to hear about it. Please comment in the comments section and we’ll add it to the list.
Happy holiday hunting!
Snowshoeing isn’t boring!
January 5th, 2012
Making tracks in the snow
Anyone under the illusion that snowshoeing is just a boring walk with tennis rackets strapped to their feet, slogging through monotonous snow fields, please read on… and be educated!
The Team:
Scottish Louise and Irish Kevin, new couple Chris and Alison, novice bachelor Jonathan, father of two Paul, Undiscovered Alps Sally and Emily and of course the guides!
A snowy tea and biscuits stop
Day 1 of our New Year Snowshoeing Trip:
We awoke to very heavy snowfall. The valley was hushed quiet as millions of fat snowflakes fell from the sky absorbing all sound.
Cars made only necessary journeys and we were no exception. The snowploughs came and went with apparently little effect as the new snow refilled the scraped road surfaces instantly with a thick white blanket.
Bruno, our guide for the day decided to drive just a short way up the valley to snowshoe in the woods up to a plateau.
Our faithful minibus with it’s brand new snow tyres was ready to take on the challenge but sadly (maybe something to do with the driver.. me??!) had to ask everyone to get out, reverse and take a run up to get up the very short hill. Glad we weren’t going anywhere steeper on four wheels!!
Downhill snowshoeing technique
We wrapped up and started our walk through the trees. The snow just got thicker and thicker leaving an ever increasing layer of white icing sugar on the trees. Bruno made tracks in the virgin snow as we wound our way up through the woods, negotiated a couple of interesting streams and eventually ended up just on the edge of a plateau where we had hot tea and biscuits!
Then came the descent!
They say soft white powder is a skiers dream – believe me it’s a snowshoer’s paradise too. Running down it is like floating on air and if you fall (which we all did of course) it is extremely forgiving!
By the end of the day, everyone had discovered their method, scraping down on their bottom creating a mini avalanche of their own, running with soft knees and heels in, each step rebounding off the powder or trying to walk normally without too much falling head over heels!
Rediscovering the sledge!
It was a fantastic morning in the snow and we deserved our tasty lunch in the Auberge afterwards!
The afternoon was spent sleeping or at least ‘in bed’ for some whilst the rest of us went sledging – oh what a laugh.
Grown men throwing themselves down a mountain on children’s sledges (not at all competitively!!). Us girls sensibly left before it got out of control!
Day 2 – Full Day Snowshoeing up to a summit.
Our snowshoeing summit objective in the distance!
The snow clouds had disappeared revealing blue sky, sunshine and a beautiful white glittering scene. Bernard, our guide for today decided to go for a ridge walk to make the most of the views and we headed up to do the Pic de Gleize. However, we hadn’t quite anticipated the wind effect which as well as chasing away the snow clouds, had also shifted half the snow off the mountain and was blowing the white powder in painful sandblasting gusts. Despite the wasted drive we decided to head to a different mountain in the shelter of the wind. Good decision!
We were starting about an hour later than we should have been but it didn’t matter. The scene in front of us was spectacular, if a little daunting, as Bernard pointed to the summit to show us our objective.
We passed ski tourers who were already on their way down giving off plenty of positive energy vibes having obviously enjoyed their taste of the powder in the sun. This was going to be good!
Loving it!
We followed their tracks for a while, being careful not to destroy them with our snowshoes. Then Bernard challenged us to go off track and make our own way up the mountain. Suddenly the responsibility dawned and we listened intently as he explained how to choose the way: not to traverse across steep slopes, to stay on the top of the little spurs and avoid snow-filled gullies whilst all the time keeping the overall objective of ‘the summit’ in mind. He omitted to tell us how physically challenging it was to break tracks in deep snow, however!
Luckily the mental stimulation of route finding was enough to distract from the burning thighs and everyone was amazingly good at it! Unfortunately for Louise the distraction was a bit too much and she managed to lose her white glove in the snow. We all watched powerlessly as it tumbled down the mountain. Jonathan was the second victim, losing his glove to a gust of wind at lunch as we sat in the rocky outcrops admiring the view. He managed to retrieve his with little ado and gentleman Kevin generously gave his gloves to Louise for the rest of the climb.
Breaking tracks in the snow
We finally arrived at the top. The endorphins were definitely doing their stuff and with the views, sun and great company… it was fantastic.
We had another snack and hot tea before the downhill attempt. The snow was a little harder this time and a light crust had developed in certain places covering the powder underneath. The trick was to try and find the soft powdery bits where the crust transformation hadn’t taken place. The shaded bits were the best bet and we all headed off down with our new-found techniques from yesterday.
Bernard demonstrated a new technique for sliding down (skiing style) a harder crust without breaking it but it was a little bit technical for us novices and pretty much everyone ended up head first in the snow or resorting to sliding down on our backsides!
Can I stay here all night?
The glove was found, and with his hero work done for him, Kevin rejoiced!
We made our way back to the Auberge with suntanned faces, that lovely tired feeling in our legs and lots of happy memories!
I wasn’t there for the evening so I will have to let the others tell you how it went. Though, it is probably worth noting that it was New Year’s Eve, they had a 7 course gourmet meal with a different glass of wine for each course, and they went to bed at 5 in the morning!
Day 3 – The Final Day of our Snowshoeing trip
Thomas (today’s guide) and I arrived at 13hrs to take everyone for the afternoon snowshoeing. We were greeted with non-stop giggles and laughter as the night before was revealed. I can confirm they had a good time! It was sunny and lunch outside on the terrace was firmly on the agenda before snowshoeing.
Snowshoeing up the valley
By the time we finally got going it was 14hrs30 and we had decided to go to Prapic, the last village of the valley, with it’s traditional alpine architecture of hay lofts, animal housing on the ground floor and living quarters in the middle very much in evidence. Very picturesque.
It was a gentle walk from the village without too much ascent following a river up through the valley with dramatic cliffs and mountains on each side. We saw chamois up in the cliffs and had fun interpreting the animal tracks criss-crossing our path. There had been a hare and a fox and speculation as to who was first and what had happened overtook the conversation for a while! We reached the chapel for another tea and reindeer chocolates from Alison before heading back.
We had been snowshoeing with a ‘day after the night before’ slow but comfortable pace and suddenly realised that we were probably going to get back down in the dark! The pace didn’t quicken though. There was a silent agreement to stay out as long as possible in the mountains. We watched as the retiring sun cast a pink hew over the snowy mountain tops and then turned the sky a deep orange as it set behind the mountains.
Arriving in Prapic
Lights flickered on in the darkness lighting up the villages scattered out in front of us in the V of the valley. But it was the lights of Prapic that stole our imagination. A chocolate box scene of snow-covered houses glowing under the orange halo of the village lights. It was astoundingly beautiful and we lingered a little longer to appreciate the beauty – the perfect finale to a great trip.
Three days snowshoeing and three very different experiences!
A big thank you to Kevin, Louise, Alison, Chris, Paul and Jonathan for making this such a top trip!
Have a look at the full photo album for this trip on flickr.
If you have a snowshoeing story to share, we’d love to hear it. You can reply to this post in the comments or email sally@undiscoveredalps.com and be a guest blogger.
Getting Close to Wolves
December 17th, 2011
Scanning the mountains for wolves
We are standing very still in the woods in a wild and remote part of the Southern French Alps listening. It is still, with not a breath of wind.
Occasionally a lump of snow falls to the ground breaking the silence. A bird tweets. Then we hear a branch breaking and movement. We look but see nothing. The movement stops and then we hear it again but further along. We must be 30 metres away but there is nothing to see in the undergrowth of the alpine woods. The animal is moving quietly and stealthily through the forest. Is it watching us? We are here to track wolves but today we have the distinct impression they are tracking us.
Chamois grazing in the Alps
The wolf tracking adventure is three days long and we are four, Giovanni, Greg, me (Sally) and Bernard our guide and tracker. On the first day we went into the centre of a territory of a pack of seven wolves sure to stumble upon tracks and evidence in the fresh snow. We saw chamois grouped together on the ridge and another group further down – plenty of prey for the wolves. But as for wolf tracks we saw none. The wolves were somewhere else today. Local sources didn’t shed any light on this sudden disappearance of the pack who had recently been very present leaving evidence in attacks, sightings and hidden camera photos.
There was of course the chance they would turn up overnight and we would discover their tracks in the morning but we decided to go to a different territory next door for our overnight in the refuge where a pack of 5 are thought to reside.
Looking for wolves
We drove up to the refuge and unpacked our equipment and food for the night. The water source was a spring about 10 minutes walk away and Greg and Giovanni went off to get water only to come back 5 minutes later with empty bottles but large grins! They had found tracks! We went off to investigate and sure enough they were wolf tracks.
Very pleased with ourselves we set off to follow them. There were 4 wolves and it was easy to follow their tracks along the trail in the light snow. But then all of a sudden they stopped. Some went off to the left and one to the right. We split up to investigate.
The wolves to the left had gone into the woods and circled around but it was difficult to see where they had gone after that and we quickly lost their tracks.
The wolf pack prints
The tracks we had seen were fresh though and there was a good chance they were in this forest somewhere relaxing for the day before their night time hunt. We decided to continue up to the ridge in the assumption that if the wolves were traveling across the woods we would find where they exited by traversing the ridge. If we found nothing there was a 50/50 chance they were still in the woods.
Call it intuition or a sixth sense but pretty much all of a sudden we all stopped still. We had heard something. It wasn’t like a chamois running through the woods. Nor was it a deer bounding away.
Something was moving slowly and cautiously through the woods above us. We listened intently and scanned the forest for visual signs. We saw nothing but I certainly had the distinct impression we were being watched.
Wolves in the woods?
Maybe it was my imagination running away with me or maybe I was right. We will never know for sure.
We continued up to the ridge and ‘bingo’ we found fresh tracks but they were coming in to the forest not out of it. Maybe the wolf had exited lower down and come back in at this point? After a short break watching two chamois running across the steep mountainside we continued following the wolf tracks back down through the forest we had come up through.
Where were they going? The wolf was walking steadily through the forest with easy paced regular tracks and came right out onto the trail where we had started!
Where the wolf crossed our tracks
It’s tracks crossed on top of our own tracks from this morning pushing fresh snow over the top of them. The wolf had walked right past us and there was the evidence staring us in the face! ! Magnificent!
We went back to the refuge wondering where the wolf was now. Had it rejoined the others? Where had they been all day and more importantly what were they all doing now?
The moon with it's halo
It quickly got dark and we were blessed with a beautiful full moon surrounded by a halo of light making large concentric rings which none of us were able to capture on camera (annoyingly!). Whilst we were all marveling at this strange phenomenon a loud barking sound came from the forest. A deer calling for help. But not just one bark, the poor animal was terrorised. It’s terrified bark echoed across the still night in panic, warning the forest of danger. The wolves were still here.
Bernard howled, a long piercing sound echoing around the mountains. We waited and listened. Nothing. He howled again. Nothing.
We went back in to the refuge, very glad not to be out at night in wolf country!
After eating we came back out again and howled and this time got a response but the reply came from beyond the forest and was just one solitary howl and quite short. We howled again but this time it didn’t play ball.
Walking up to the ridge
The next morning was our last day and we wanted to find out more so decided to do a large sweep of the territory taking in the ridge but starting lower down to see if we could find our lone wolf’s tracks coming out of the forest to complete the picture.
We found tracks but not from where we thought – they were coming from over the other side of the col (thought to be a different wolf pack territory). Was this our wolf or a totally different one? Only one way to find out! The tracks were heading to the left of the ridge – too far left to be our wolf. Was this a stranger exploring new territory? Or a member of the pack coming back after a hunt in no man’s land?
We soon discovered where the tracks were going. Bones. The wolf was going back to a previous kill and was hoping there would still be some left.
Dry Bones
Sadly for him the foxes, vultures and other scavengers had got there before him, leaving just a few scattered dry bones. He did a U-turn and traversed under the ridge back to the right… maybe this was our wolf after all. Yes indeed! The tracks were the tracks we discovered yesterday going back into the forest.
So now we have two theories… was this wolf just coincidentally crossing our paths as we were making our way through the forest. If so, had we got to the ridge an hour earlier we would have seen it traversing across the plateau to the bones.
Or is it the wolf we were following that just did a much wider loop (we never found tracks coming out of the forest) on it’s way back into the forest where it crossed our paths? Was it the wolf we heard howling? And why is it on it’s own? Had it separated from the pack for hunting or is it a young wolf from an adjoining pack looking for a new territory?
Golden Eagle
We pondered these questions whilst watching a herd of mouflon run across the snowy plateau. Then we continued along the ridge to see if we could see any more signs of the wolf or the other / rest of the pack coming out of the forest at the other side.
It was a spectacular ridge and all the more beautiful with a golden eagle circling over it.
We got the the edge where we were blocked by steep cliffs. The only way was back the way we came or down. If the wolves had exited this forest we would cross their tracks on the way down so guess which way we chose to go! As we descended black grouse flew off right in front of us in a spectacular flurry of feathers and we discovered their nests and footprints in the snow.
Scanning the ridge
Sure enough we soon found the pack tracks and followed them all the way back to the piste – they were the original tracks we found yesterday. Back to square one.
Whether the wolves were watching us, stalking is even or whether our paths just crossed by coincidence we’ll never know. But is doesn’t matter, it was just wonderful to be there and know they were close by.
Have a look at our flickr photo album for more photos of our wolf tracking adventure. If you have any wolf tracking experiences, we’d love to hear them. Please tell us about them in the comments section below.
Granny and Grandpa Go Ice Climbing
November 22nd, 2011
Grandpa Chris Ice Climbing
I used to worry about getting older and not being able to do all the things I love – mountaineering, running in the mountains, rock climbing…. .
Norma and Chris setting off.
But ‘getting older’ is a very ambiguous statement really… when is too old? Too old for what? What are the limiting factors – age, fitness, balance, strength…? Can these be maintained, controlled – how easily and how effectively? And maybe if we are ‘too old’ we don’t mind not doing all these things and are quite happy reading a book in front of the fire?
And then I met Chris (age 70) and Norma (age 66) who came on a snowshoeing holiday with Undiscovered Alps last winter.
Chris has a dodgy knee (the downsides of getting old) but despite this is a dedicated walker and adventurer!
Norma discovered the outdoors in her 40s after the children grew up a bit and hasn’t looked back since!
Whilst chatting they decided to have a go at ice climbing for the first time in their lives!! Why? Because the ice was in perfect condition, the guide was available and they thought it might be fun!
Granny Norma reaching the top
Ice climbing is much more physical than people think and when you are standing in front of a vertical frozen waterfall, with water flowing underneath it, the temporary state of what you are about to hang off suddenly hits home!! It is not unheard of for people to back out before they have even started!
Bernard Guillaume our UIAGM high mountain guide decided to take Chris and Norma to The Cascade des Martins which is 185m high and grade 3 – 4. It is situated in the beautiful wild valley of Champoleon and is a fantastic ice climb with challenging moves and wonderful views!
After a slightly wobbly start, Chris and Norma took to ice climbing with a passion! With the stamina, grace and agility of seasoned mountain goats they negotiated 80 metres of ice including one technical grade 4 section which was not easy. I was secretly very pleased that Norma struggled a bit over it – otherwise I would have totally lost face with my attempts!!
They were truly an inspiration to anyone wondering what to do with their retirement – life definitely begins at 60!
If you would like to try ice climbing please have a look at our ice climbing courses or try it as part of a winter multi activity holiday.
Walking in Wolf Country
October 20th, 2011
The view from the top
Papa looking after the children, no clients and no other urgent things that need to be done… equals… whole day to walk in the mountains as I please…!
Venus
I chose to go to the area where we run our wolf tracking trips. Not actually in search of wolves but just because it is wild and beautiful and the chances of actually seeing another human being are very low!
It was a beautiful day and the mountains stretched out in front of me looked magnificent. We (my dog, Venus and I) set off with the objective of climbing up to the ridge and then following it around to the summit at the end and back down another ridge making a circuit.
The scale of these mountains gets me every time. Despite being here for 6 years, I still have walking in the Lake District scale imprinted on my brains and what looks like 20 minutes climb (in Lake District Terms) is always double at least!
We climbed and climbed and eventually got to the ridge and sat down for a snack and a good look around with the binoculars. Not one animal to be seen – but maybe it was just me not spotting them!
Looking down the ridge
We continued and arrived at the summit – another opportunity for a good sit down and binocular!
I scanned the mountainsides all around me in search of chamois, mounflon, deer… anything really – I just wanted to see some animals.
And then as if by magic two light browny grey coloured specs in a little clearing in the steep woods in front of me. What were they? Too light to be chamois, maybe mouflon? But it looked as if one of them was sitting down like a dog. The other was definitely standing up so it wasn’t a trick of the eye. A surge of adrenalin rushed through me. Maybe it was the wolves? I kept looking at them to try and get a bit more evidence – oh I wish I had my telescope and Bernard (my husband who is a wolf expert) with me! Bernard would be able to tell straight away.
I put my binoculars down to take a photo which I could at least blow up on the computer to see later and show Bernard. But as I searched with my camera lens zoomed in to the maximum they had disappeared. I scanned the mountains again with the binoculars to locate them – maybe I had got it wrong with the camera, but no – nowhere to be seen. I spent ages looking and scanning the edges of the forest where they might have come out but they had gone.
I’ll never know if they were the wolves or if it was just an optical effect that made the animal look like it was sitting. Or maybe it was a fox. But it doesn’t matter – it was exciting enough just to have found them.
The Chamois Carcass
We went down from the summit to the ridge and as I descended I saw something strange sticking up out of the grass. I went over to investigate. It was a chamois carcass. Ripped in two with its head and spine left on one side and tangled up hind legs about 2 metres away. In between the two was the evidence of the culprit. A large dark coloured fresh canine poo! The wolf.
So maybe I had or maybe I hadn’t seen them but they were here and had no qualms in taking down the chamois on top of a ridge in full sight of anyone or anything that cared to look!
I took a picture and carried on down. I was very pleased to see some living chamois in the woods as I descended!
Fell (Trail) Running in the Alps – The Gapencimes Trail Race
October 4th, 2011
The Ridge on the Gapencimes Trail race
A long time ago, before children and when I lived in the UK, I used to fell run. I even once did the Saunders Mountain Marathon and came an amazing last out of the 40% of actual finishers. It was a particularly bad weather one!
Since I have been living in the French Alps where I am surrounded by fabulous trail running routes in all directions and am blessed with great weather pretty much all the time, I have hardly done any! “Why?” I hear you say, “It is criminal to neglect this beautiful sport with such amazing opportunities on your doorstep!”. Work and children, work and children, pregnant, work and more children, work and children…..!
Sally and Maryanna at the top of the Pic du Bure on a training run
Anyway, this April, a colleague told me about the Gapencimes trail race in October, actually in the hope that I would create a trip around it and attract lots of British competitors. I never got round to creating the trip but the little flame burning away in my heart was re-ignited and I made the decision that I would do it! There are three routes,, The ‘Breche’ 12km with 750m of ascent, The ‘Cretes ‘ 25 km with 1250m of ascent and the ‘Eidelweiss’ 48km with 3000m of ascent. I set my heart on the Cretes!
The training started slowly with short, flat runs and gradually increasing to longer runs with more and more ascent and descent. I got to know the mountains around Gap intimately and my passion for trail running just got stronger and stronger! It’s not like fell running in the UK, the trails are generally dry and rockier. There is no falling in peat bogs but you sometimes need gaiters to keep the scree out! The mountains are steep and technical, the views are spectacular, there is abundant wildlife and flowers and hardly any people. I’ve seen chamois close up, startled a wild boar out of it’s sty and seen roe deer bound in alpine meadows on my runs.
The summer was a bit of a training disaster as work became a 7 day a week affair and by September I was exhausted and unfit! But thanks to Maryanna, my fantastic running friend, and some negotiated time off from looking after the children, I got back training. Maryanna dragged me up the Pic du Bure – 2 hours of uphill! We did St Maurice – 700m of steep ascent and one fateful day decided to do the Gapencimes Cretes 25km trail route to test it out.
In the starting pen for the 25km 'Cretes' trail race
Of course it was the only day of hideous weather in the whole of September. It started well, a wet but still pleasant run down the canal and steep but slippery ascent up to the Cuchon. Then the wind and the rain took hold and as we negotiated the ridge, we found ourselves stopping every five minutes to add a layer, remove a layer, eat, drink…. we got colder and colder and the weather got worse and worse. Eventually we got so cold we had to abandon the route and head back to the car. A total of 4hrs and 22 minutes of endurance later we were sitting glumly in the car. This was not looking good for the race which apparently we should be aiming to do in 3 hours!
Sally running on the ridge during the Gapencimes trail race
The 2nd of October arrived and convinced we were going to be snails, we told our supporters to give us a good 31/2 to 4 hours (and that was being optimistic) before coming to look for us at the finish line. Our objective for the race – participate, enjoy, finish without injury and stick together!
The start was at Charance and with 600 competitors and their supporters there was a real buzz in the air. It was a beautiful day, but hot and I am not good in heat. I looked around at the competitors in the hope of gleening some last minute tips… long or short running leggings, poles or no poles, running sacks or belt, cap or headband….? Okay, water is going to be important, despite 3 refreshment stops, the full 2 litre camelback was a must which meant rucksack. And after my Pic de Bure experience I opted for poles and a cap! I caught a snippet of conversation about long leggings being good for supporting muscles and that clinched my decision to change my new short ones that kept riding up for my tried and tested comfy knee lengths despite the heat!
At 8:45 we were called into the starting pen and Maryanna and I jostled for a spot not too near the front (didn’t want to get run over by the pros) but not too near the back either.
One of the pros
At 9:00 the whistle blew and we were off! It was tricky trying to run with so many people and very frustrating not being able to get a pace. Gradually it thinned out and the route took us around the lake and then along the Gap canal. Large wide pistes and reasonably flat for about 6 km. It was perfect warm up territory and we eased into our running pace gradually overtaking the odd person and of course being overtaken ourselves by others – positioning for the climb!
All of a sudden the climbing started and the trail of people above us like ants swarming up a mountain were in walk mode. Out came the poles and we tried for a fast walk rhythm but it was impossible with the amount of people in front and not good for the pace to keep speeding up to overtake and then slow down. So we succumbed to the plod up and maybe this was a good thing anyway to conserve energy for later.
On the ridge
But the competitive spirit was starting to stir and I was sure we could go faster without burning out. As soon as it flattened out we sped up and overtook and gradually one by one managed to get behind some people with a pace more like ours. And then Maryanna called me, her face white, she announced she was feeling unwell. Maybe we were going too fast. We stopped and discussed what to do, and of course saw all the people we had carefully manouvered in front of come past us. I was torn between wanting to support Maryanna and wanting to get our position back. Maryanna decided to head down and abandon the race. So I carried on alone.
I wanted my position back so I started again carefully overtaking people and trying to keep a good pace. It was spectacular on the ridge, and there was a slight breeze which kept the body temperature perfect. Running high up on a mountain ridge with views to the Ecrins and beyond really was dream running territory. I even saw some Eidelweiss. I missed Maryanna – I knew she would have loved this. Further along there was a musician playing the flute, just sat on the ridge in the sun – beautiful.
The Ridge
Finally I got back behind the same person we got to before we stopped and I was on form. I knew I could go faster and that the majority of the climbing was done. I again thought of Maryanna hoping she was okay. I’ll do a good race for her, I thought, I wanted her to be proud of me to make all the training worth it!
Just at the col there were people cheering us on with horns and tambourines. It was a fantastic ambiance.
There was a steep technical descent and I remembered Marayanna’s words “Let yourself go, don’t hold back!” and I went for it. I left the people I was with and it felt so good overtaking one person after the other.
The Col de Gleize refreshments was a welcome short stop with a bit of banana and juice, but tactically meant I let the girl with bunches just in front of me get a lead. After the col de Gleize it was a wonderful rolling descent in the trees and along the side of the mountain. I went for it, trying to catch up the girl in front of me. I needed a wee and felt a blister start on my left foot. Should I stop? No, I’ll just get past the next person. I’ll get past that girl and then stop. My competitive spirit was in full force and the wee and blister would have to wait. In fact it made me go faster. The quicker I got down, the quicker I could go for a pee and sort out my blister. I knew the skin had come off and I felt the burning every step. But it didn’t matter, I was running fast and felt fantastic.
The finish line
The sound of the finish line could be heard through the trees as I approached. I hadn’t caught up with the girl with bunches but had passed several others including my neighbour who lives for running. I imagined my children waiting for me at the finish line, ‘allez maman, allez maman,’ they would chant. I couldn’t wait to see them.
Just at the finish, a man ran past me. Oh no you don’t, and I put on a sprint. We drew. But my children were no-where to be seen 
I looked at my watch – 3 hours and 18 minutes. Fantastic.
Priorities were wee and blister and find Bernard, my children and Maryanna.
Bernard was just arriving, having listened to my 31/2 but more like 4 hours estimation. We met and I called Maryanna who had another story to tell! “I am in the red cross tent, but not for what you think…!” She had in fact decided to carry on and had got up to the ridge and was aiming to catch me up. But just on the ridge, she slipped and twisted her ankle. Whisked off straight away on a quad with cold sprays and ice packs, she was waiting to be taken to the hospital.
But she was pleased with my time. Next year we’ll go for it properly!
And after such an inspirational run, we have now managed to get some trips together – yey!!! Have a look at our Gapencimes Trail Race Package
The Best Mountaineers are Small!
September 5th, 2011
Katie climbing the Rateau 3769m
Maybe it’s to do with a low centre of gravity, less body mass to co-ordinate, small feet that fit in small holds….. or maybe it is just nonsense, but lots of the mountaineers and climbers I know are definitely on the small side – my husband and high mountain guide, Bernard at 169cm and 60kg, included!
But there is small and there is tiny!
Weighing 23kg and just 129cm tall, Katie (small for her age at aged nearly 11) must be one of the smallest people to climb the Rateau 3769m!
Along with her brothers, Ben and Jamie (also small for their age) and mum and dad, they climbed this magnificent mountain in the Southern French Alps with Bernard on the 23rd August 2011.
Mountaineering is not an activity one embarks upon lightly, especially with children. The days can be physically strenuous, even for the most hardy of characters. 
There are the early starts, high altitude, long and difficult walk ins … not to mention the mountain hazards such as the weather, crevassed glaciers, rock fall, sheer drops….
But if ‘small mountaineers’ ever needed an ambassador, I can highly recommend Katie or any of her ‘small’ family! Their determination, positive attitude and natural talent got them across the glacier and nearly to the top and made the trip a wonderful memory for Bernard’s mountain memory bank.
Here is their account…. I think they have well and truly caught the mountaineering bug!
Walking up a glacier does have it’s setbacks; it involves getting up at 5.30 am in the morning, stumbling weary eyed down the stairs, eating breakfast whilst in Bernard’s minibus and being too tired to remember your rucksack! But I would do that again, if it meant experiencing the day we had.
At 6.30 we bundled all our gear into the back of the minibus for the 2 hour drive to La Grave on the north side of the Massif. The plan for the day was to attempt to reach the summit of Le Rateau at 3769m. We had a little help from a cable car, and then the plan involved traversing a glacier and rock climbing to the summit. To achieve it all in the day meant we had to catch the first cable car up at 9.00am hence the early start. To cross the glacier it is obligatory to have arms, legs and hands covered to avoid ice burns in case you fall. Our first hiccup was when arriving in La Grave, Dad discovered he had left his rucksack at home – with his long trousers, jacket and gloves in. This meant 15minutes racing around the shops getting replacements with lots of help from Bernard, causing us to miss the first cable car and having to wait for the 10.00am one. However it was turning into a glorious day and gave us time for a very welcome coffee or delicious hot chocolate!
Climbing up the Glacier
We finally reached the top of the cable car and made the short walk to the edge of the glacier. The time had come to fit crampons to our boots, put on our helmets, rope up together and get to grips with our ice axes! We looked around us at the amazing scenery of hills, mountains, glaciers and crevasses and felt a thrill run through our bodies. This was starting to feel exciting!
We took our first tentative steps onto the ice, confidence increasing with every one. Initially the going was fairly straightforward but then we came to the first crevasse! Bernard cheerfully told us that the glacier was up to 200m thick in places and some of the crevasses would go down all the way! He had been emphasizing all the time the need to keep the rope tight between each of us so that if anyone did fall, they would be easy to stop. If there is slack in the rope a falling person could gain vast amounts of momentum, making arresting their fall almost impossible. Approaching the first crevasse with all these thoughts in the forefront of your mind really caused a huge adrenalin surge. Concentrating fiercely we all managed the small leap across the rent in the ice. Many more crevasses interrupted our route, some loosely covered by snow but we soon became adept at spotting the slightly discolouration in the ice that identified them. Jamie had a bit of a scare when crossing one crevasse – there was the enormous sound of ice cracking! He was keen to get away from that one!
We carried on across the glacier until we reached a really steep section. Ice axes became essential, planting them into the ice on every step. This was becoming hard work! Bernard’s advice about taut ropes was now imperative to follow as if a fall was not arrested immediately we could all have been pulled down the glacier. Fortunately the crampons and ice axes did their jobs and we kept our footing on the slippery ice.
The climb up to the summit
We eventually made it to the top of the glacier and the final attempt on the summit began. For safety reasons Bernard could only take up a maximum of three people at a time, so Mum and Ben ate their lunch looking at the great scenery, relaxing after a tiring but exciting walk up a steep glacier and Dad, Jamie and Katie carried on up. Crampons off, ice axes left behind but still roped up we were soon scrambling up steep and very, very exposed rocks. You felt eager to climb but couldn’t help feeling a little apprehensive. Bernard led the way putting secure anchorages for the rope in along the way. Dad was starting to reach the edge of his comfort zone walking along ridges with near vertical drops of hundreds of meters on either side. Le Rateau means ‘The Rake’ and the summit is made up of a series of pinnacles looking like a rake. Each time we reached the top of a pinnacle it felt like we were on top of the world – what a feeling! The views were absolutely astounding. We were one pinnacle short of the top when we ran out of time (due to our late start) and had to head back down in order to get the last cable car off the mountain. We picked up Ben and Mum and put all our gear back on for the descent back down the glacier – every bit as exciting as the ascent!
We arrived back at the minibus absolutely shattered but having had the most amazing and unforgettable day on the mountain imaginable. What an introduction to Alpinism!
Jamie, Ben and Katie Webb
